Wildside Magazine, March 2009

Jennifer Crawford, friends and family visited Madagascar to find a strange and beautiful land, exploring Nosy Be, Mitsio Archipelago, and Sakatia Island.

 “The iconic and surreal beauty of large basalt formations emerging from a turquoise sea are mesmeric. That you float through changing scenery brings with it a sense of freedom and escape.”

Our first night in Madagascar was spent at the Antananarivo airport which felt like a scorching hot oven - and with dim lighting and lack of facilities it compounded my thoughts about being in a furnace. Striking pilots had brought excessive flight delays which meant we’d missed our connecting flight from here – the capital situated in the centre of this large island – to our final destination in the North West. We’d kept our spirits up determined to have a fantastic holiday, and reminded ourselves that travel in Africa is not for the feint hearted. Madagascar is no exception. Thoughts of the famed giant hissing cockroaches from Madagascar prevented me from stretching out on the carousal at the airport like most of the rest of our group of eight. Known as ‘hisser’, and officially as Gromphadorhina portentosa, it is one of the largest species of roaches reaching up to 8cm and commonly kept as pets. They don’t fly and are not aggressive but hey, they have featured in Fear Factor. On a nicer note, their image has been created and encrusted with Swarovski crystals. This humble roach though, even with such stats, pales into insignificance on this unique island with its rare emblematic animals such as the lemurs, the world’s smallest chameleon – the length of a finger nail, as well as some rather large ones, luminous geckoes, miniature frogs that grow to 1cm, and other stats like 1000 orchid varieties, seven varieties of baobab and, upside down ylang ylang trees. Indeed a preservation of nature’s creativity. After a night of pacing around the airport looking for hisser and friends, dawn broke and we clamoured to get onto our flight to Nosy Be - a large volcanic island only eight kms off the north coast and the most popular tourist region in Madagascar.

After landing in Nosy Be we squashed into a very old taxi, piled our profligately large bundle of luggage on top, and went belting along curvy roads towards the harbour at Hell-ville. Nosy Be is cultivated with plantations of cinnamon, cocoa, ylang ylang and vanilla which we had glimpses of, and hence this island being dubbed the Island of Perfumes. That we’d been travelling and sweating for more 24 hours coupled with the knowledge that Madagascar is only 400km off the coast of Mozambique, and we’d flown only from Johannesburg, the irony of the name of the harbour town was not lost on any of us. We did of course know that it was named after Louis de Hell and had nothing to do with hell. In fact, Hell-Ville is the capital of Nosy Be and there are numerous hotels and eateries and a hub of tourist activity. There is a vibey ‘bar brasserie pizzeria’ called Le Nandipo that serves the best pizza’s in the world. Don’t miss this spot.

Tanikely Marine Sanctuary.
The site of the luxury 50ft catamaran, glistening on blue waters, which was to be exclusively ours for a few days made the travel delays all worthwhile. Captain Bert Spalding said he’d expected us to be far scratchier than we were, and minutes after climbing aboard we sailed off to nearby Tanikely – a small island with surrounding marine sanctuary. We dived off the cat and into the blue waters amongst a kaleidoscope of fish – some darting and some seeming to fly through the clear waters – angel fish, pipe fish, and parrot fish were in abundance. You could say we spent our first real night in Madagascar aboard a 10 sleeper custom designed catamaran with a spacious galley and comfortable cabins. We anchored off Nosy Sakatia, a small island hugging the larger Nosy Be. We sat drinking and chatting on the trampolines at the stern of the catamaran and named it ‘Mast Bar’. Madagascar is not littered by light pollution so we looked up into an inky black sky where the stars shine bright.

Boat it in Madagascar or forget it
I realise I am ‘nailing my colours to the mast’ here, pun intended, but in my opinion, to fully experience Madagascar you have to spend at least a few days aboard a yacht sailing – preferably longer. Without doing so is a lost opportunity to see, up close and personal, the iconic and surreal beauty of large basalt formations emerging from a turquoise sea which is mesmeric. That you float through changing scenery brings with it a sense of freedom and escape. Of course a luxurious yacht makes it completely appealing... With 3 double cabins and two showers, two sea kayaks, snorkelling equipment and fishing rods on board for your use, not to mention the chef and crew on hand 24 hours a day to cater to our every need, including serving up superb meals. I woke to the sound of the anchor being hauled aboard in the morning, the chain clanking on its way up, sails being opened – all these nautical sounds were thrilling because it meant we were preparing to sail into the blue yonder. More accurately to the Mitsio Archipelago.

MITSIO ARCHIPELAGO

The Mitsio Archipelago is a collection of about a dozen small uninhabited islands fringed with white sandy beaches, and coral reefs, lying a about 60 kilometres north of Nosy Be. Each of these islets has a unique character. The Mitsio Archipelago is not depicted on many of the tourist maps – but it is there, only accessible by boat and only one island offers accommodation. So, you see what I mean about this boat story in Madagascar.

Le Grande Mitsio
Le Grande Mitsio is the largest island in this archipelago being some 12km long by 3km wide. One peak rises to 206m in the northern area. Its distinguishing feature is a wall of huge basalt columns, known as the ‘Organ Pipes’. There are baobabs growing on the cliff face that drops into the ocean.

Nosy Ankarea
The islets that necklace Le Grande Mitsio include Nosy Ankarea. It was here that we spent an entire day on its beach. The island is uninhabited, save for a somewhat eerie looking temporary beach shack. We swam from our yacht to the island, snorkelling on the way although in comparison to other island sit wasn’t the best snorkelling. We felt delightfully ‘marooned’, but of course our ‘cat’ was within swimming distance. For those not keen on swimming, the catamaran does have a small motorised tender. A climb up the highest hill on Ankarea (219m) rewards you with spectacular views over the archipelago.

The Four Brothers
Earlier that day we had sailed past Les Quatres Freres, known as the ‘Four Brothers’, which comprise four, impressively large, silver coloured rocky contiguous domes reaching heights of nearly 90 metres. Partly covered by savanna, and boasting caves and overhangs, these ‘Four Brothers’ named Nosy Beangovo, Nosy Betalinjona, Nosy Antsoha and Nosy Betanihazo with heights of 63m, 76m, 51m and 88m respectively, have an arresting presence. We enjoyed watching hundreds of seabirds, including the northern gannet, frigate birds and the Madagascan Fish Eagle swirling in the sky above these islands where they nest.

Nosy Tsarabanjina
We sailed to this island and climbed off our catamaran, wading through exquisitely blue waters and padded on to the soft white sands of this beautiful island with its palms and magnificent coral reefs. This is the only island of the Mitsio Archipelago where it is possible to stay. The Tsarabanjina Island Resort, a boutique hotel with 18 guest bungalows hidden amongst the coconut palms is a haven of luxury. It’s pricey though and South Africans would do well to look at travelling in their ‘low’ season considered to be in October. Making up the balance of these islets in the Mitsio, is Nosy Lava a mere 3.5km long and 1.5km wide Nosy Antaly, Nosy Tsitampevina, and Nosy Toloho covered by dense dry forest. Sailing in the Mitsio Archipelago is an adventure in itself, looking out for dolphins or green turtles. Just before sunset we were taken by surprise by ‘flying fish’ skimming the surface. The men aboard fished nonstop, their efforts were rewarded having caught numerous species including king mackerel, giant kingfish, barracuda and bonito. The giant king fish was promptly cooked up for lunch within minutes of it being caught aboard the catamaran. Pulsator Lures based in Durban, had equipped the boys well with lures and perhaps Ryan Williamson’s sound advice gave them the edge. Ryan being an avid fisherman and the owner of Pulsator Lures. Many hours were spent dozing on the trampoline, sometimes we called for the crew when we wanted it shaded, and at other times, especially in the late afternoon we enjoyed the sun and the odd splash of cool water when sailing. “The island is uninhabited, save for a somewhat eerie looking temporary beach shack. ”

SAKATIA ISLAND

Fawlty Towers
Sakatia Towers is the best place ever to arrive at after days chilling out at sea. This quaint and quirky owner run and managed small lodge is based on Fawlty Towers, however unlike this famed classic British comedy show, Sakatia Towers runs without, well, ‘fawlt.’ Situated on the tropical small island of Nosy Sakatia Island – only 6km by 2km, it offers a causal, comfortable stay. There is a main house built 12 metres above the sea overlooking Sakatia Channel and the western hills of Nosy Be. Surrounding the main lodge are chalets, each with private deck, tucked into the hillside with names like Basil’s Bungalow, Manuel’s Manor, or Sybil’s Shack. Sakatia Towers sleeps 12 people in 6 separate chalets, and if you are a group of 10 then they don’t take any other bookings. There is no air-conditioning, but we seemed to have acclimatised to the heat and humidity. The food here was excellent - fresh salads, fresh fish, beef steaks, and real breakfasts. A long slatted, raised wooden walkway squiggles to and from the lodge which is used to access the nearby little tropical beach and reef for snorkelling where you spend quite a bit of time as there is no pool at Sakatia Towers. The waters are not as turquoise here, but its tropical feel is another aspect of Madagascar. Sakatia Island reminded me of Malawi at times, perhaps it was the colour of the water and the vegetation. John Sheppard is the eccentric owner of Sakatia Towers, a South African who decided to opt out of a busy life. A qualified chemist (John was the previous owner of Remedies Pharmacies that sold out to Clicks), a yachtsman who spent a year sailing the Indian Ocean Islands, says his vision was to built a hut and hide away from everyone. We felt like that too, and his ‘hut’ that he now shares with guests, was the perfect place to relax.

Sakatia Lodge
We ventured to the nearby Sakatia Lodge to do a diving resort course welcomed by Jose and Isabella Viera. A lot larger than Sakatia Towers, and ideal for divers, Sakatia Lodge has a superbly equipped NAUI approved dive centre and offers a vast range of courses from snorkelling, to resort dive courses, through to instructor. Fringed by a coral reef, and close to the channel between Sakatia and Nosy Be, it ensures a variety of dives – from novice, to night dives and dive training. Sakatia Lodge attracts experienced divers too because of nearby large reefs with walls and drop-offs.

Diamonds in the Sea
On a night boat trip between Sakatia Towers and Sakatia Lodge we experienced the dancing phosphorescence – they seemed like diamonds in the sea. This spectacular site is one of many moments that the wilds of Madagascar brings. Clockwise from top: Rowing and fishing on Sakatia Island, a beautiful little beach alongside Sakatia Towers, accommodation and food at Sakatia Towers, the Madagascan Gold Day Gecko (Phelsuma laticauda) – who visits you while you are having lunch, and the view of Sakatia Towers as you approach.

NOSY BE

Vanilla Hotel
Although Vanilla Hotel was only a boat ride from Sakatia Island to Nosy Be, it was very different. Vanilla is a large hotel with some 40 rooms, two restaurants, and three swimming pools. The rooms are in well attended gardens, and at first you are not aware of the size of the hotel. By now, I have to admit I welcomed an air-conditioned room even though ours didn’t have a sea view, and to laze alongside a swimming pool with book in hand was great, while traditional massages offered at the hotel were a treat. Although the brochure speaks of private beach, the beach in front of the hotel is small and with the dramatically shifting tides, sometimes there is no beach to speak of. Nonetheless there is always the pool. Vanilla Hotel is great for a few days, and a good base to go exploring. The two teenagers in our travelling party voted it the best place - although I don’t think the adults quite concurred.

Land of the Lemurs
Madagascar is often referred to as the ‘Land of the Lemurs’ because they are native to Madagascar. Lemurs (lemures), meaning “spirits of the night” are primates with a matriarchal hierarchy. The number of different types is extensive – more than 40, however various sources quote different stats – but they are all endemic to Madagascar. From Vanilla Hotel we’d taken a taxi to Hell-Ville, and a boat trip to Nosy Komba which lies between Nosy Be and mainland Madagascar, eagerly waiting to see the iconic lemurs. We’d been advised to arrive early, before the hordes of day trippers, and thankfully we heeded the advice. Although these little furry squirrel like creatures were wonderful to see, unfortunately it was not a ‘nature’ experience and rather more of an open door zoo feeling. The lemurs leapt onto us which took us all completely by surprise, but soon realised that it was a result of tourist feeding. It did give us the opportunity to be really close to them, look at their big reflective eyes, and tiny hands, as well as get a few good shots. Within minutes tourists started to arrive and the lemurs leapt from us to the newcomers as quickly as they had leapt onto us.

La Plage Bar
After the Lemurs and a short walk through the forest, we strolled through the village which is geared for tourists with a market. We bought a table cloth and some local ‘Malagasy’ cotton trousers, and headed to Bar La Plage overlooking the sea. La Plage has a reputation for the finest capriennas and we decided to find out. I am not sure which is the greater attraction at Nosy Komba, the lemurs or La Plage, but after a caprienna or two, we started to vote for La Plage. And, if you think I am a sissy for only handling two drinks, be warned these capriennas are something else. We had no idea what went into them, none of us want to know, and it’s an experience best left up to you. It was however, a fabulous way to end a great trip.

About Madagascar
Madagascar can be split into five regions – the far north (Nosy Be and Mitsio Archipelago) as featured mainly in this article, the green east (Andasibe National Park, and St Marie),the dry south (Fort Dauphin – some good surfing), the west (Famous Baobabs) and the highlands (Ranomafana National Park). It is as geographically diverse as it is biologically and this means there are extreme variations in holiday options – from cheap and cheerful beach shacks in the south where many surfers visit and you get a bucket of water to bath with, to exclusive luxury hotels. Madagascar is also not for the feint hearted, it is wild Africa, but for the slightly adventurous, it’s an interesting destination. We recommend you liaise with one of the best in the business – Jenman Island Safaris, to arrange a trip that suits your needs. Jenman’s recommendations, based on our wish list, including the tempo of our trip was perfectly planned by them and, for us at least, the few days aboard the yacht changed the holiday from being average, to fantastic.

To Book: Contact Jenman Island Safaris to book all the accommodation in this feature as well as being agents for the Yacht. They will arrange and book flights and transfers. Jenman Island Safaris arranged Wildside’s itinerary and come highly recommended.
021 638 7826 or 0861 536 626
info(at)remove-this.jenmansafaris.com
www.travel2madagascar.com

JENMAN ISLAND SAFARIS
Jenman Island Safaris is a division of Jenman African Safaris – a leading safari travel operator in Southern and East Africa. Led by brothers Garth, Brendan and Andrew Jenman, Jenman Island Safaris is based in Cape Town, with offices in Antananarivo, offering tailormade travel to Madagascar. Since 1993, Jenman Safaris has grown and has achieved a reputation for reliability, safety, high service levels and excellent value for money. Jenman Island Safaris has positioned itself to be able to provide its customers with the product they require, whether it’s a budget or an upmarket holiday to Madagascar, catering for those who are looking for a value-for money experience.

Why Jenman Island Safaris:
• Staff have travelled extensively in Madagascar, and personally know the places
• Packaged tours or tailormade private tours are arranged
• They offer eco tours, beach packages, dhow safaris, yacht charters, sports trips (fishing, scuba diving, kite-surfing, sea kayaking), family holidays, honeymoons and business travel
• They specialise in tailor-made travel to Madagascar
• Have a solid reputation for safe, comfortable, fun-filled travel to all parts of Madagascar
• Can cater from camping to luxury hotels
• Committed to eco-friendly, sustainable responsible tourism

What to pack:
• Due to the hot and humid climate take light-weight clothing. We over packed.
• Rash vest for snorkelling and protection from small jellyfish.
• Some places you may need to take your own snorkelling gear –check in advance
• First aid kit – including antiseptic cream, immodium, antihistamine, sea sickness tablets and mosquito protection. Anti-malaria tablets advised.
Currency and Costs: The local currency is Ariary but Euros accepted where we travelled. Rands are not accepted at all. Ariary not available to buy in South Africa, and at times are required in Madagascar, so change Euro’s to Ariary upon arrival at the Antananarivo Airport. With goods rounded off in Euros it can become expensive. A large beer (sold in quarts) costs between 1.50 – 2.70 Euros. A local lunch can cost around 3 or 4 Euros, in a hotel, around 8 - 10 Euros.

Visa: Required, can be purchased on arrival and costs 70 Euros.
Climate: The dry season is from April to October, and the rainy season from November to March. The ideal time to travel is between September and October. We risked travel between 27 December and 9 January and enjoyed glorious weather, with rainfall only at night. Generally, avoid being there from mid January through March.
Language: Malagasy is the official language, French which is widely spoken. English is gradually been spoken more, particularly in the touristy areas.
Flights: Wildside flew Air Madagascar. Unfortunately there were excessive flight delays. There appears to be regular flight delays. SAA also fly to Madagascar, to Antananarivo. However only Air Madagascar fly the ‘dog-leg’ from Antananarivo to the north west and if you have not used them as your international carrier then this short flight is expensive.
History: Madagascar became a French colony in 1896, obtained independence in 1958, but the French continued to have influence. After independence it used the name Malagasy Republic, but reverted to Madagascar in 1975.
Safety: The recent Malagasy political issues that have been in the news have affected only Antananarivo. Jenman Island Safaris are in constant contact with hotels and associates in Madagascar regarding the political situation. At the time of going to press Jenman Safaris was taking bookings for Madagascar, and monitoring the situation.

PULSATOR LURES
Wildside was sponsored with lures by Pulsator Lures. Ryan Williamson, the son of the late John Williamson, legendary lure manufacturer and founder of Williamson Lures, is the founder of Pulsator Lures. Ryan started manufacturing lures in 2005, and today has the enviable reputation as the supplier and manufacturer of South Africa’s best and largest range of quality fishing lures. The dramatic growth of the business can be attributed to the exacting standards and quality parameters set by Ryan . Scientific principles and creative concepts are utilised to develop unique and highest quality lures. Their products are thoroughly tested by South Africa’s top game fishermen, and are unconditionally guaranteed. Anglers can be assured of an exact swimming action each and every time a Pulsator Lure is put in the water.